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Published March 04, 2008 06:26 pm -

Food by the Book: Irish tale makes for good eating


By Melony Carey

I have a confession in this month of St. Patrick — I dislike Irish literature. The sad beauty of the stereotypical Irish tale tends to turn maudlin for me, I think an after effect of watching John Ford’s “The Quiet Man” one time too many. So, I have put off reading the number one best-selling Irish author until now.

Maeve Binchy is indeed a revered figure in Ireland. Starting out as an advice columnist for the Irish Times, her career took off in 1983 when she sold her first novel, “Light a Penny Candle,” at the age of 43. She has three works in the top 100 selling novels of all time in Ireland, including the spot at number one.

Considered a modern-day Jane Austen, Binchy deals with women’s issues of love, marriage, career and family in her fifteen novels. Oprah chose 2005’s “Tara Road” as her book club pick, rocketing Binchy to fame in America. “Whitethorn Woods,” just out in paperback, landed Binchy on the New York Times bestseller list.

For all the acclaim, “Whitethorn Woods” was a disappointing place to develop a familiarity with this popular author. Departing from her normal style, Binchy approaches the work through the vantage of several intertwined short stories, rather than as a novel. Perhaps this is because she announced three novels back that she was not going to write another one. Still, the book’s premise is great, as the inhabitants of quiet Rossmore learn that a highway bypass will cut right through the town’s holy shrine, St. Ann’s Well. Each character’s viewpoint about tradition and connection to the well is told through the short stories.

Binchy’s novels contain no torrid love scenes and precious few references to food, an amazing feat for a best-selling author these days. Perhaps, as she claims, cooking is not her forte, but her forty years as an advice columnist have provided plenty of food for thought about life, love, and human nature.

Here are some great recipes to touch the inner-Irishman in you. As they say in Ireland, may you live as long as you want and never want as long as you live.

Baked Goat Cheese Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoons cider vinegar
3 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon red wine
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon minced shallot or green onion with tops
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
Prepare vinaigrette by whisking all ingredients in a measuring cup.
Set aside.
Four 1-inch-thick slices goat cheese
1/4 cup olive oil
3/4 cup fresh white bread crumbs
10 ounces mixed salad greens
1/4 cup dried cranberries
1/4 cup chopped walnuts

To make the salad: Place the cheese in a small bowl and spoon the olive oil over the top.
Turn the cheese to coat both sides.
Refrigerating for four hours will increase flavor.

Preheat the oven to 400° F.
Lightly oil a baking sheet.
Place the bread crumbs in a small bowl.
Dredge cheese rounds in the crumbs.
Transfer the cheese to the baking sheet and bake, without turning, for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the cheese is lightly browned.
Divide the salad greens among 4 plates and toss with the vinaigrette.
Remove the cheese from the oven and place 1 piece on top of each salad.
Sprinkle with the dried cranberries and nuts.

Salmon with Mustard Glaze
Legendary Irish hero Finn MacCool reputedly obtained the gift of knowledge by cooking and eating a salmon.
4 pieces center-cut salmon fillet (1 1/4 inches thick), skinned
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 tablespoons water
1/4 cup prepared mustard
1/2 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup chopped scallion greens

Pat salmon dry and season with salt and pepper.
Heat oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking
Sauté salmon in 2 batches, turning over once, until just cooked through, 6 to 9 minutes per batch.
Overcooking will toughen fish.
Transfer to a platter and keep warm, covered.
Remove skillet from heat and cool 1 minute.
Whisk in remaining ingredients and salt and pepper to taste.
Bring to a boil.
Pour sauce over salmon and garnish with scallion greens.

Savoury Rutabaga (Turnip) Pudding
2 large rutabagas
1/2 cup fine breadcrumbs
3 tablespoons milk
4 strips bacon, crumbled
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 eggs, well beaten
Pinch of cinnamon
2 tablespoons bacon grease

Clean, peel and cube the rutabaga, and cook in boiling water until tender, then drain.
While rutabaga is cooking, fry bacon strips and reserve 2 tablespoons or so of the grease; drain bacon and crumble.
Mash rutabaga thoroughly then add all the other ingredients.
Put into a 2-quart casserole greased with reserved drippings and bake at 350° F for 35 minutes to an one hour.

Irish Soda Bread
I love the soft cake-like texture of this bread.
2 cups unsifted flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons butter, softened
1/2 cup seedless raisins
1 cup buttermilk
1 tablespoon butter, melted

Preheat oven to 375°.
Lightly grease a small cookie sheet. In a large bowl sift flour, sugar, baking powder, soda and salt.
Cut in softened butter with fork until mixture looks like fine crumbs.
Add raisins.
Add buttermilk and mix until dry ingredients are moist.
Turn out on a lightly floured board and knead gently.
Pat out to about 7 inches round and 2 inches thick.
Press a large knife halfway through, then repeat at a right angle.
Bake 40 minutes until top is golden.
Brush top with melted butter.



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